Tuesday, December 7, 2010

This Doesn't Feel like Flor-i-da

When we called to find a slip at Fernandina Harbor Marina they said they had something for us, but it would be on the outside dock and it might be a little rough. We decided to go ahead and take it (even when Ben clarified they had actually called it a "breakwater"), we've already had a few rough nights, and it's easiest for us to dock (with one motor) on a t-head or in a linear docking situation. We should have realized the mistake when we got close to the marina, and hailed them on the radio, they said "you'll be right in front of the cruise ship." The cruise ship ended up being fine, (quiet), but it was a pretty rough night. The northwest wind was blowing us right up against the dock, and Ben started to worry that we were going to pop a fender. I didn't realize that was something to worry about, but since Ben was worried, I was too.

We survived the night, but woke up to a very cold morning. It was still pretty gusty, so we came up with a plan for getting off the dock over our Cheerios (with one motor, we've developed a pretty good habit of breaking down responsibilities/who is going to do what when we dock or leave a dock). The biggest problem for this execution was my hands were completely numb, and my fingers were not working enough for me to hold a fender in place, (our pivot point), and at the correct moment, quickly, on Ben's cue, untie the line that we were using as a pivot. The first try the line was a little too far forward, and we weren't pivoting correctly. The second time I couldn't get the line off the cleat and slipped quick enough. Before attempt three, a cruise passenger walked by and said "It sure doesn't feel like Florida." Ben from inside the enclosure thought he said, "Having a little trouble this morning?" I think Ben might have been projecting, but he had also completely forgotten about the cruise ship and was totally baffled that someone would be walking around a dock at 8 am (it was cold, we got a late start) and not offer to help with a line. But it ended up working out fine, third time was a charm and we made it about 55 (statute) miles it to St Augustine Beach.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

We're in Florida!

We are excited to have made it to Florida. It feels like (finally) we've made progress south! Since Isle of Hope, GA, we spent one night anchored out, docked at Jekyll Harbor Marina, and are now docked at Fernandina Harbor Marina.

We anchored out at New Teakettle Creek in Georgia and it was less eventful than our last anchoring experience - a very good thing. We used a bridle from the start and also used our dingy anchor as a kettle to hold the anchor rode lower in the water allowing us to properly swing over the anchor rode. The wind was no where near what it was the other night, when we think what threw us off was the boat was being pushed in the direction of the current, but still sitting facing into the wind. The anchor kettle was suggested by several other Maine Cat owners. It was also a relief to hear that others had similar problems, and that we were on the right track to a solution (we rigged a bridle that first night and were researching how to use a kettle for the next time).
Happily Anchored
We were a little worried because it was supposed to be in the 30's the night we anchored, and since we weren't going to be plugged in to shore power, we would be without heat. It might not have been quite as cold as forecasted, but we were amazed at how warm it was. We've been wimps, we could have anchored way sooner. We spent a little less time in the cockpit because the hulls were a little warmer, we stayed bundled up, and we stayed in bed a little later than normal (almost 7:30 am!) but I was never COLD. It's supposed to be 28 tonight though so we decided maybe we aren't THAT tough.

Yesterday we docked at Jekyll Harbor Marina. I was excited because the guidebook mentioned a Sea Turtle Center on the island. I wasn't exactly sure what a Sea Turtle Center was, but from some of the reviews it sounded like it really had potential, and I've always really loved turtles. It closed yesterday at 5:00 and Ben and I agreed that sitting down at the bar, and drinking gin and tonics was more important, but this morning I was able to convince Ben to delay our departure, check out bikes from the marina and head over the the Georgia Sea Turtle Center. We are so glad we did! The center is a rehabilitation center for ill and injured sea turtles and an educational facility for people. I wasn't 100% sure we'd get to see actual turtles, but I was really excited to find out there were giant tanks of all different sized turtles. We also got to watch one of the employees weigh baby loggerheads, and a baby terrapin and a one year old loggerhead have breakfast (separately). We were really lucky - while we were walking around the educational part we started talking to Mike, an Americorp volunteer. He ended up giving us a personal tour of the center, and answered almost all of our questions. He also had some questions for us about living on a sailboat (I think we were able to answer most of his questions, too). My favorite turtle was Arribada, a juvenile Kemp's Ridley sea turtle with a damaged front leg. I identified with this turtle even if missing an engine might not really be comparable to missing a leg. I was pleased to hear from Mike that a 3 legged turtle does NOT swim in circles.

Tonight we are docked at Fernandina Harbor Marina in Florida! Right after we docked Ben noticed a seafood store very close to the dock and ran over in case it was closing at 5:00 pm. He came back carrying a large paper bag and said there was good news and bad news. I assumed the good news was better since he was obviously carrying something yummy - the bad news was they only sell crabs by the dozen. We also called a cab and took a ride to the Publix. The cab driver, RJ, was great, and also took us to the Walmart to buy a heavier dingy anchor to use as our kettle. We also mentioned that it is a real shame that none of the marinas on the trip have a RedBox. It seems like such a no brainer - cruisers are cheap ($1 movie!), don't get a chance to see movies when they come out, and can't use a mail service like Netflix. Also, most cruisers would probably rent and watch the movie that same night, so it wouldn't be a big deal to just walk it back to the RedBox if it was right at the marina. As soon as we mentioned it RJ got on his cell phone to call a friend. So, if you see any RedBoxes crop up at marinas in the next year, thank us, and RJ.

Friday, December 3, 2010

Days 21 and 22 - Layover Day In Beaufort and Beaufort to Isle of Hope, GA

We needed a layover day yesterday. Well at least I did. We arrived in Beaufort on little sleep and had to wait about 40 minutes (with one engine) for the Wappoo Creek Bridge to open (apparently it was only opening on the hour, not the half hour as well). While we were waiting it was pouring rain and the entire floor of the cockpit/living room/dining room was soaking wet. When we got to the marina all I wanted was to get on the computer and watch the highlights from the previous night's UVA basketball game (UVA beat #13 Minnesota to open the ACC/Big 10 Challenge). I hadn't even been able to listen to the game on the radio the previous night. I can normally pick up 3WV on the wunderradio app on my iphone, but we didn't have good enough service the night before. When we got to the marina I realized not only was my computer not working, but the internet wasn't fast enough to watch the highlights from Ben's computer. My feet were wet and cold, and I had to walk to the communal marina bathroom just so I could wash my face with warm water. Sometimes living on a boat is not glamorous and I had my first "I want to go home moment."

It didn't help when the weather remained rough that night. We barely got any sleep again, so when the weather was still looking iffy the next morning we decided to just stay put for the day. It also allowed us to check out two additional restaurants - Plum's and Pannini's. Both were better than should be expected and the brick oven pizzas were exactly what we needed. We also had a chance to hang our Christmas lights and finish watching Harry Potter Episode #4 (...and the Goblet of Fire).

We also used the courtesy car to run to West Marine and the Piggly Wiggly. There wasn't really have anything we absolutely needed, but it was nice to pick up a few things - body wash, bread, and some more boat cleaner. We also did a little walk around the downtown area. When we got back to the marina it was really filling up. A lot of boats seemed to have had rough days (or previous nights) from the weather, and everyone was looking to re-charge. It was fun this morning - we were up about 6:30, and there was a little bit of a buzz as all the boats around us were getting ready and heading off about the same time. There was also another young couple, we didn't get too much of a chance to talk but they were heading outside to St Augustine, FL today and planning on getting there tomorrow morning. They also had a cat on a leash.

We were aiming for Thunderbolt, GA which is at the mouth of the Savannah River. We've decided to skip Savannah this time around since we just took the day off, and since Savannah is about 8 miles up the river, so out of the way. We made it about 8 miles further to Isle of Hope Marina. Ben cooked a wonderful dinner and we just watched the 5th Harry Potter (and the Order of the Phoenix). I'm enjoying being on a boat again, I realize how lucky we are to be able to take this time off to do this, especially at this point in our lives, and it's vacation, but it's four months so it's also our lives and there are bound to be ups and downs, but as long as everything is taken in stride I'm sure there will be more ups than downs.

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Captain's log supplemental "Two Hulls One Motor =("

"Two Hulls, One Motor =("

And now a note on why having only one motor on a catamaran sucks.
Sailboat rudders are located at the back of the boat. This means that unlike a car, a sailboat turns by pushing its stern out either left or right. Basically, as water moves past the rudders they produce areas of high and low pressure as they turn either left or right. As the helmsman (person driving the boat) turns the wheel, the rudders move to one side. Doing so they create higher pressure on the outside face of the rudder. This causes the stern of the boat to be pushed away from the direction of the face of the rudder with higher pressure . (ie. the one deflecting the water). This is all well and good, but just like in a car, the road or in our case the water must be moving under us in order for the rudder to have any effect.
A catamaran is kind of like two monohulls attached by a central platform. We have two of everything underwater. Including two rudders and two propellers being driven by two motors. In catamarans, the motors are located in the stern of each hull. This allows for enviable agility.
Unlike a monohull, This can really get dramatic when we put one motor in forward and one in reverse. by doing this we can quite literally "spin on a dime".
This is all well and good and can make us look very good when we come in to a tough docking situation, but it assumes you have both motors.
In our case we are missing our starboard motor. This means that it is impossible to go from a standstill to a left hand turn. In fact, it means that by engaging the one (port) motor we necessarily start to turn in a circle to starboard. This starboard circle continues until we have created enough motion through the water to allow the rudders to compensate for the unevenly distributed thrust from the one motor. The problem is also the same in reverse. We are unable to turn to port while in reverse. at least not until we are moving at a pretty good clip.
All this is not that big a deal with some good planning and communication with dock masters (and each other), we've done all right. The one exception being in Charleston SC. There we had a very tight dockage, high currents high wind pushing us into the maze of docks and away from the slip we were trying to get to.
The upside to having only one motor is you use about half as much fuel, the boat is quieter, and quite surprisingly we actually go almost as fast as with two motors.

Captain's log Week 3

11/25/10 to Myrtle Beach
7:15-3:30
8.5 engine hours (one engine)

Thanksgiving. I'm thankful that we have made the decision to leave Southport.... even though we have only one motor....
After some consideration last night, Laura and I decided to take a chance with one motor and keep going. Best case scenario, we won't have a new motor for at least another week. Sitting around in Southport that long would be a disaster.

The downside to having only motor is that you are significantly less maneuverable. For more than you ever really wanted on how boats turn (or don't), see the post in the "Captains Log" titled: "Two hulls, one Motor =("

11/26/10 to Georgetown
9:00am-5:45
8:45 motor time
This is kinda why they call the ICW "the ditch"... It's a lot like driving a loud car that's hard to stop through a wide ditch.

11/27/10 To North of Charleston
8-4:00pm
It's hard to live in a 30'x18' box with another person 24 hours a day, with almost no privacy and no one else to talk to. This was one of those days when we probably could have used some space. But, at the end of the day we made a gin and tonic, watched the sun set (these two things are becoming something of a ritual), saw a dolphin and the world seemed a bit better.
We were told by the marina at which we planned on docking, that we would need to wait for an hour (in high current) for their dock to be ready for us. We stared to circle around a little river a few miles from the marina and ended up getting waved over to a private dock by a man working on his sailboat. He ended up offering us his spare dock (complete with power and water) for free for the night. It was exactly what we needed, just a little something to make us remember that it's good to be on the boat. Laura has written a bit more about this in her section.

11/28/10 to Charleston
This was where we really had a hard time docking with one motor. High current, high wind, a packed and largely enclosed marina, and one motor. In the end we managed to get it done without hitting any of the many millions of dollars of yachts in the harbor (and some of these really were yachts, not boats). I wish I had this on video, it would have been a good one.
Tonight we went to a restaurant we had never heard of before, but one which came highly recommended by my friend and coworker Lori Shinseki. "McCradys" was fantastic, look for it in our (yet to be created) restaurant review section. Actually, it was an instant favorite.

11/29/10 Anchorage North of Beaufort SC
9:45-4:45
7 hours motor time

We anchored out in the ICW. We didn't sleep, we almost lost 2 sets of ground tackle (anchors and chain/rope), had to get help from a passing boat, I ended up in a wetsuit..... enough said. Read Laura's account for the details.

11/30/10 to Beaufort SC

Took it a bit slow today, just went into Beaufort SC about 25 miles from where we Anchored last night. Took the opportunity to do some much needed laundry and get dry.
Had another great Dinner at "Saltus" See restaurant review section.

12/1/10 Beaufort SC again
Started to leave in the morning, but decided that it was just too windy and that we could really use a day off the ICW. This feeling was compounded by the fact that sleep was hard to come by the last two nights. Overnight we were bullied by choppy seas, high current and really big wind. It was like trying to sleep in a washing machine. staying put for the day is a good decision.

12/2/10 to Thunderbolt GA (yay new State!)
7:15-4:15
7 hours motor time
It was really quite cold last night I think it actually got below freezing. We brought our little salad garden in from the cold (thank you Larry and Roberta). I'm still surprised at how warm the little space heaters keep the cabin. The cold front that passed through over the last two days has finally blown out. Winds have come down and so have the waves. Finally we had a good nights sleep. No waves no worries. I'm realizing that this trip down the ICW, which was always an afterthought for me, (something to get through on the way to the real adventure) is in it's self an adventure. It is physically, emotionally, and mentally taxing. It is also beautiful and always changing. I will always remember it. We are docked at Isle of Hope Marina in Thunderbolt, GA (actually, I think it might be it's own town, but it, and Thunderbolt are pretty close to Savannah). Calm relaxing day, just what we needed. Eating cheese and crackers with a glass of wine watching the remains of another sunset.

Our battery is worrying me a bit as the voltage readings are quite low. We have 4 55W solar panels on board as well as high output alternators on the motors (or motor). The day was sunny and we ran the motors all day. We should be seeing more than 11V in the battery. Most boats carry several batteries which are split up for separate uses. One dedicated for starting the engine and one for the "house" lights, pumps, etc. We have only one battery on board for everything. Granted it is the bad ass of all batteries developed by NASA for long term use in space, but it is also 10 years old. Worst case scenario the motors don't stars and we have no electronics. We can always use a handheld GPS a chart on the iPad (yes these are just as good as paper charts) and start the motor with the pull cord until we can find a new battery. (Larry Jones bite your tongue).

Picture Post - Thanksgiving, Charleston, Etc

Yes, this means my computer is working again, and we have a decent internet connection. As much as I know about computers, I'm still moving slowly and cautiously so it doesn't turn off again. I actually think it might have something to do with the humidity, since both times it's stopped working it's been quite humid and both times it's worked it's been pretty dry. I bought one of those DampRid hanging bags and stored the computer in the closet, so we'll see, it might end up being like my car, which also dislikes the rain.

Thanksgiving


Charleston


Our Friends


I better hurry up and get this posted before the computer shuts down.

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Days 19 and 20 - Charleston, SC to Beaufort, SC

I was all ready to post a bunch of pictures today, but my computer went down again. It's having the exact same problem. We are thinking about renting a car tomorrow and going back to Charleston, because that's the only Apple Store until Miami, and we're not planning on going that far. If nothing else, I can return the $100 battery, since that obviously did not fix the problem.

Heard back on the engine - the lower unit is ok, but there were several problems with the rest of the engine which Yamaha will cover. Once the parts get to Southport, it will be about a day and a half to fix, and then we'll have to find a place for them to ship it to where we can have it installed. 

We are really missing that other motor. Two nights ago we anchored for the first time on our trip. It's been pretty cold at night, and without being docked and plugged in, we don't have heat. Since it was supposed to be was one of the first warm nights, we found a spot in the guidebooks and decided to spend the night on the hook. Things were going well until the tide changed and the current switched directions. In theory you are supposed to "swing" on your anchor, and all should be fine. Unfortunately, when we swung, all was not fine.

At about 8 pm it sounded like we had run aground, but we had swung over the anchor rode, and it was hitting something under the boat (the bumper keel, rudder, or hull). It was difficult to free ourselves because we were very worried about fouling the rode in our one good engine, and because only having one engine we were very limited in what directions we could move. We finally were able to straighten out, and rigged a second rope to create an anchor bridle, which is supposed to even out the pressure so that the boat swings better. 

All was well until about 4 am when the currents switched again. Ben was in and out of bed between 4 and 6, so at 6:30 I joined him on deck. At that point, the anchor looked correct. Ben had lost the bridle, but the anchor was centered. When I started to raise the anchor it was stuck on something and the boat swung back over it. Ben and I aren't exactly sure what happened over the course of the next two hours, but it wasn't pretty and we were getting scared. Finally, at about 8:30, Will and Renaldo from South Carolina Fish and Wildlife drove by and pulled over to ask if we needed any help. We weren't sure if Will and Renaldo would be able to help us, and more importantly would be able to help us safely - without putting themselves in danger, or damaging their boat. At that point we had let go of the original anchor, with a float tied to the bitter end of the anchor rode and Ben had deployed our back up anchor, however, it seemed like in relation to the current and the winds we should have been resting in the opposite direction. So, we were still stuck on some part of our primary anchor rode. Will insisted that if there was anything they could safely do to help, they would and we were grateful. We were able to talk through a plan (adjusting as things didn't work or results were different than expected). By 9:30, Ben was in his wetsuit hanging off the transom cutting the primary anchor's trip line from around one of the ruder posts with my rigging knife.  Before cutting the trip line, Ben was able to lift a few feet of the taught line out of the water and hold it up so Renaldo could grab it from the bow of their boat.  When Ben did cut the line,  they were able to pull up (and save) our anchor. In fact, they recovered both our anchors, and in the end all we lost was a CO2 cartridge on one of the lifejackets which fired when Ben was laying down in the dingy. The next time the boat is hauled (or when we get to the clear waters of the Bahamas), we'll find out if there was any additional damage to anything under the water. 

Last night we docked in Beaufort, SC. Not to be confused with Beaufort, NC. The pronunciation is completely different! It should have been an uneventful night, and we were hoping to catch up on some sleep but the wind was howling all night and the tide race made for some choppy seas. We both got up at different times to check the dock lines. We are looking forward to a few slower days coming up, and are even planning on taking "a day off" soon to explore, we're just not sure the best town to explore (Hilton Head, Savannah, or a Georgia Island). And we will be sure to pick up a book about anchoring.